This is the Rachel Comey vogue pattern (1501) that came out a year or two ago now. When it came out I thought “Cool, but not for me”. Then I saw Heather Lou’s version on Instagram and did a 180°. I planned to copy her outright (no shame!) with solid black fabric, but obviously got distracted at the fabric shop (Drapers) and came home with this inky/blush print rayon. It didn’t mention any type of sub category but it’s more of a crepe style rayon that a chalis.
Before starting I removed the centre pleat from the skirt as I had seen Katie (from What Katie Sews) do, I didn’t like the thought of that extra fabric in the front. I chose not to make a muslin as I thought the pattern would be easy enough to alter if necessary. Construction was fine and fitting wasn’t a problem, but I just wasn’t feeling the style on myself.
The little flaps at the front looked strange, the shoulders were wide and it seemed too long. Making alterations halfway through is not the most precise way do to things, so it felt risky, but I knew I would always see those ‘faults’ and just had to. The result isn’t perfect but I think it was the right decision for me, except for maybe the length. Hemming was a nightmare and I couldn’t seem to get it straight so it kept getting shorter and shorter. I’m not embarrassed to admit that fluid fabrics are still really tough for me to cut accurately! I need to try that gelatine trick sometime but I’m not sure if it’s really for rayons as I’ve mainly heard of people doing it with silk chiffons etc.
It does feel a bit of a strange garment to me. Although the back of the bodice is relaxed the fitted waistband still feels somewhat formal to wear, but the hem length is perhaps not work appropriate. It has had a couple of outings over summer but I really prefer relaxed waistbands in the heat, so it actually got more wear in the cooler months paired with a jacket over black tights. The back view makes me look like a huge rectangle but I don’t really mind – it’s fun to make and wear something a bit different.
Will I make again? I still love the idea of a black version but probably will never get around to it.