A different silhouette



This is the Rachel Comey vogue pattern (1501) that came out a year or two ago now. When it came out I thought “Cool, but not for me”. Then I saw Heather Lou’s version on Instagram and did a 180°. I planned to copy her outright (no shame!) with solid black fabric, but obviously got distracted at the fabric shop (Drapers) and came home with this inky/blush print rayon. It didn’t mention any type of sub category but it’s more of a crepe style rayon that a chalis.

Before starting I removed the centre pleat from the skirt as I had seen Katie (from What Katie Sews) do, I didn’t like the thought of that extra fabric in the front. I chose not to make a muslin as I thought the pattern would be easy enough to alter if necessary. Construction was fine and fitting wasn’t a problem, but I just wasn’t feeling the style on myself.

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Pattern art

The little flaps at the front looked strange, the shoulders were wide and it seemed too long. Making alterations halfway through is not the most precise way do to things, so it felt risky, but I knew I would always see those ‘faults’ and just had to. The result isn’t perfect but I think it was the right decision for me, except for maybe the length.  Hemming was a nightmare and I couldn’t seem to get it straight so it kept getting shorter and shorter. I’m not embarrassed to admit that fluid fabrics are still really tough for me to cut accurately! I need to try that gelatine trick sometime but I’m not sure if it’s really for rayons as I’ve mainly heard of people doing it with silk chiffons etc.


It does feel a bit of a strange garment to me. Although the back of the bodice is relaxed the fitted waistband still feels somewhat formal to wear, but the hem length is perhaps not work appropriate. It has had a couple of outings over summer but I really prefer relaxed waistbands in the heat, so it actually got more wear in the cooler months paired with a jacket over black tights. The back view makes me look like a huge rectangle but I don’t really mind – it’s fun to make and wear something a bit different.

Will I make again? I still love the idea of a black version but probably will never get around to it.


Still sewing



Hello! If you follow me on Instagram you may have seen these garments posted months ago. I have a few things I’ve made over the last year or so that I just fancied blogging even if they’re not new and shiny anymore.  I haven’t checked in on WordPress in so long that it’s completely changed and I am still figuring out my way around and even discovered a bunch of unread messages – opps! Bear with me if anything looks odd.

OK… let’s do this!

These cropped trousers are made using New Look 6459 using a triacetate polyester blend from The Fabric Store. This is one of those shades that is difficult to photograph true-to-colour, it’s a slightly dirty burnt orange – I absolutely love it! I have been stopped by strangers and complimented on these trousers a few times (stylish strangers at that!). I don’t think they actually look amazing on, but they are something different and I guess that’s their appeal.

I like cropped trousers but I have pretty short legs with prominent calves so I think this longer cropped length works best on me combined with the high waist.  I will say that these fall in the “WTF?” category for my partner, he does not get the leg length at all!

I made them a couple of months after having my daughter, so they were a size up from my usual and I ended up making adjustments to them as my body changed. As a result their construction is not ‘perfect’ – I had to take them in from the side seams and it affected the way the pockets sit. The shifty fabric was a little hard to cut out and the bouncy, press-resistant nature of the fabric means that any discrepancies in the seam lengths haven’t been discreetly eased in, so there are a few wavy areas. I previously made these in a more stable fabric and didn’t have the same problems. I don’t really mind about the flaws though. It’s hard to make adjustments to garments when you’re working around pre-inserted zips and waistbands and who’s paying that close attention anyway?

In terms of the pattern, it’s a pretty straightforward one. The centre back invisible zip closure may not be for everyone, but it does create a nice clean finish.


The top I’m wearing is self drafted. I did night classes at a community college where we used Winifred Aldrich’s book to create our own blocks. I really enjoy pattern drafting but it’s a skill that needs to be honed (for example, learning the right proportions and curve shapes) and I don’t have enough time for all the trial and error right now. Also there are so many good patterns on the market!

Having said that, I tried on a top in a store and of course thought ‘I could draft that’! The rtw fabric was also a bit silky/shiny for day-to-day wear so creating my own version seemed worthwhile. Like the inspiration top, I wanted a slim/relaxed silhouette with V front and back neckline. I made a toile, did a few tweaks and almost got the desired result. The front armhole doesn’t sit quite flat so I’d want to work on that if I was making another.

The fabric is pretty lovely – it’s from Drapers Fabrics and is made from eucalyptus. It’s listed in their online store as ‘spike’ and comes in several colours. It feels somewhat luxurious, but also raw, and is really nice and soft. I planned to do an all-in-one facing but realised that it wouldn’t look great due to the very slight transparency of the fabric. I wanted to line it but only had enough for a half-lining (similar to the ogden) which is obviously still affected by the transparency, yet is passable.

Anyway, the verdict is that I like both these pieces and have been getting good wear from them over the past few months. I’m not even sure if cropped pants are still cool but I really hope they are, as I’m keen to make a couple more pairs of these for autumn! I took these photos one evening in front of a closed cafe (Queenies, for any Aucklanders). It’s such a gorgeous building but how strange is it posing in a public place? Very! I started off attempting to pose but it just looked awkward, so then I decided to not pose – but there is apparently an art to that too! Oh well, this is as good as it gets right now – just look at the clothes!