Late last year I was thinking about my sewing goals for 2015 and decided that working on fit was the one thing I really needed to nail before anything else. Of course, then I discovered I was pregnant and suddenly that plan went out the window! There is a lot of unpredictability with a post-pregnancy body, you really have no idea what size or shape you’re going to come out in the end. (Hopefully it’s effortlessly slim with a few extra centimeters in height and a permanently increased cup size!).
Anyway I am really enjoying sewing at the moment and have a few unmade patterns that I want to try, so I thought I would make up some muslins now and hang onto them until later in the year when I am ready to make the fit adjustments. First up is this Burda pattern for a blazer/jacket and trousers. I made the blazer and luckily I can still try it on to show you my progress.
Just warning you, I look a bit like a mad scientist in these photos!
Obviously I made the long version and gosh, isn’t it long? I haven’t turned up the hem but still, it reminds me of a lab coat. It looks really overwhelming on me and makes my shoulders look huge! I’ll definitely be making the short version if I make a ‘real’ garment. The fabric really doesn’t help does it? I know it’s a muslin but I actually thought the stripes might work. I definitely believe that matching fabric to pattern is one of those skills you’re either born with or not (and I’m not!). Maybe a black or grey wool or just plain navy would look better? Stripes do help with ensuring everything is straight though so can be quite useful in muslins – although these stripes are different widths and I accidentally lined some of my pattern pieces up with the wrong stripe during cutting. Prints and patterns definitely require precision, don’t they!
Apart from the upper back, the fitting feels OK although I’m not sure if there’s a bit of excess fabric at the top of the front piece.
As per usual the upper back is too tight and my arms are restricted when I reach forward.
I am considering getting a few muslins together then seeing a sewing/pattern cutting teacher who specialises in fit so that I can work on the issues that reoccur for me. I find it impossible to know what to do to garments on my own body! Have any of you done any pattern making/alteration type courses or private lessons that have helped with your own fit problems? I don’t really want to make my own patterns as I like the variation in bought ones, but it seems that a lot sewers have a block that they use as a starting point or to compare against ready made patterns.
Anyway, that is Burda 6985. I haven’t been able to find any other version made up online and I always think it is interesting to see what it looks like on a real person. Kind of hideous really, but you can definitely blame my fabric choice for some of that! I’m not sure if I will get around to making a proper version or not, but I have also made a muslin of the trousers which I liked so I will at least use the pattern for a pair of those.